‘Window Smasher’ anyone?

Bones is intrigued by the market towns

Last month I was in Market Harborough, on the Grand Union Canal. The arrival of the canal in the early 1800s meant that boats could deliver goods to the town. A town that flourished with the arrival of the canal. It has fallen silent now. The warehouses have been converted sensitively into accommodation and bars. Market Harborough is also the birthplace of the ‘window smasher’ narrowboat, named as such because of it’s high bow. Whilst I know them as Harborough Marine boats, they were built by Mid-England Narrowboats who then became Anglo-Welsh Narrowboats. It will be interesting to see how many make the pilgrimage to the festival in June 2025. It will be the 75th anniversary of the Inland Waterways Association’s Festival of Boats and Arts. It looks like it will be good fun! What I didn’t know, was that Springer boats were also built there. Rather intrigued by the market towns, I pootled along to another market town; Market Drayton.

Market Drayton is in Shropshire. The Market at Drayton existed since it was first permitted to do so in the 1200s by Henry III. There is still a market there, but these days, the town is better known for its gingerbread although I missed the ginger and spice festival which takes place in late September.

I had hoped the air would be full of spices as more gingerbreads were made at Billingtons in Market Drayton. I couldn’t smell a thing, and I wondered whether things would be different when the gingerbread festival was in full swing. I was intrigued to learn that gingerbread (gingerbrede) arrived in the UK with the crusades, and claims to be the oldest cake in the world. How it ended up in Market Drayton is another story.

The canal came to the town in the early 1800s. At that time, the canal was called the Birmingham and Liverpool Junction canal. It is now known as the Shropshire Union Canal. I haven’t ever lived on the Shroppie, but the odd visit I have had has lifted my spirits and I feel called to it. It’s a beautiful area as well. One day I can imagine myself living there on the good ship. This time, however, we were on foot. Canals are a wonderful place to take friends, but they aren’t always accessible to those with impaired mobility, or disabled. My friend is disabled, so we have to be careful where we go.

We went in to the town to have a cup of tea and plan how to access the canal. The market town has some lovely old streets, beamed buildings and some quaint and enticing architecture. The shop fronts are quite garish by contrast. Bizarrely the shops didn’t open until 10am, and the town was only starting to liven up when we left at 11.

We decided to find the wharf and ask them for some local knowledge of where to go. Talbot Wharf is about a mile from the centre, and has been in the same family since the 1960s. As I stood in the yard it was easy to see some of the history from the local buildings. I could just imagine the carrying companies unloading and loading. It has a rich history which can be found on the Talbot Wharf website. The owner directed us up and away from the town to Tyrley Locks. On leaving the town, the canal climbs up through one of the deepest canal cuttings in the country and the red sandstone holds Tyrley Locks.

Parking nearby was very easy, and we were able to take the short walk to the canal. Beautiful grade II listed buildings lined the canal. They were picturesque and reminded me of the line of cottages seen alongside other wharfs on the system.

We soon had a full view of the top lock and wharf. A boat was just locking through and it was absolutely perfect. We waved the boat on, and headed away from the wharf, back towards Market Drayton. The slope down to the canal wasn’t easy for my friend, but she made it to the bottom. She was delighted to feel a million miles from the car as the canal stretched ahead.

As we walked we caught a glimpse of Telford’s Lock Cottage through the hedge. We didn’t notice it at first, but when it caught our eye, we stood for a moment looking. We got lost in our imagination wondering what it would be like to live amongst the woodland like garden almost hidden from view. I looked at some old pictures, and the cottage would have been more visible, and peered over to the canal, and across the field. Just by the next lock there was a conveniently placed bench where we watched the world go by. I meandered on, and chatted to a boater coming through the next lock. I stood for a while looking down through the cutting as the dappled light danced through the trees.

We headed back as boats were coming and going through the locks. We didn’t walk far, but we were absorbed in to the life of Tyrley Locks whilst there. It was a great visit. The canal isn’t always accessible to the disabled, and picturesque areas like these are so wonderful. It was a real privilege to share my love of the canals and give my friend a break. I am hooked by the Shropshire Union. I can’t get there by boat at the moment, but perhaps I will walk it. After all, the canals are for everyone.